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A guide to help the average man... look less average

Ask me: wave #4 (closet purges, best fitting brands, etc.)

Mark Kwak

Hi folks! Time for another edition of "ask me." First off, please continue asking away since I'm here to be your resource, and am more than happy to help out where I can. Second, really sorry if I'm sometimes a little late in answering your questions, life's been a bit hectic recently, but I promise to get to every single question I can. Here are a couple select questions that I've gotten that I thought I would share with everybody:

I’ve started to understand style a lot better in the last six months or so. Unfortunately, all the clothes that I own don’t really fit the way I want them to, according to my newfound knowledge. Do you think I should just purge everything? - Steve Great question Steve. I’ve had this dilemma in the past as well. There was a point where I looked at my closet and felt like only 1/10th of it was actually wearable anymore. This was due to two reasons. First, I had just lost about 15 pounds, and most of my clothes simply did not fit. Second, I thought it was finally time to do away with hoodies and baseball caps, since I wanted to have a bit more refined sense of style.

In these situations, I don’t think it’s a good idea to completely purge your wardrobe at once, as it takes a lot of time, effort and money to recoup from something like that. Instead, I would do a basic purge of items that you know you won’t wear anymore, and then start replacing one piece at a time. If you have a coat that you’re not a big fan of, go ahead and buy another one that you actually do like, and replace your old one. Keep going on like this once in a while, when you happen to be shopping, or have a little more disposable income, and in no time you’ll have a wardrobe you actually enjoy, and one you’ll cherish for the long haul. In the meantime, try and be creative! Mix your old clothes in with the new, and create new combinations of outfits. You might find that your old clothes actually look pretty great in the right context.

Thanks for the blog man, it's awesome! So my question is, do you think that dressing really too well as a man might give off the impression that you might be gay or metro even if you're not? I want to dress better, but I don’t want to give ppl the wrong idea. – Brian

First off, be confident in your sexuality man! If you’re straight and you know it, that's all that matters. Plus, who says that a straight man can't look dapper too?

Now that being said, I think I know where you're going with that question. There is certainly a point when someone can look too polished, too clean, and too meticulous with their clothing. This can potentially give off a sort of non-hetero impression to others, not that there is anything wrong with that. Also, going skinny as opposed to slim, wearing flamboyant colors and patterns, and showing a lot of skin can all contribute to you looking more “metro” as well.

For that reason, if this is very important to you, and you want to maintain a clean, good look while still having no one question your straightness, I’d stick to more classic colors and patterns, wear slim-fitting but not skin tight clothing, and exercise proper skin discretion (not wearing shorts & shirts that are too short). Also, if that's not enough, maybe adapt a more rugged style, wearing more Barbour and Filson, and less Margiela and Rick Owens.

As long as you do those types of things and remain confident, you should be just fine. Also, nothing wrong with people asking if you’re gay because you wear nice clothes, since it might be more of a compliment to your style than anything else. We all know gay men can dress well.

Can I ask what your go-to clothing companies are in terms of fit? I think I have a build similar to yours and I usually can't find very well fitting clothes. - Young

Sure man, not a problem. In terms of pure fit, I do have some companies in mind, though I will say it's not so cut and dry due to possible inconsistencies in fit even within the same brand. Also, I've made a larger habit of altering my clothes recently. I never used to do it before, but now that I know how effective and cost-efficient it is, I try to alter anything that I feel doesn't fit well, regardless of brand.

I would say my best fitting brands would be the following, in price-point order:

1. Ben Sherman

2. Theory

3. Black Fleece

4. Band of Outsiders

5. Thom Browne

Hope that helps!

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Alright fellas, keep asking away! And as always, stay dapper.